26 Small shop setup

 

 


Small shop

For the double car garage builders, I offer a building sequence and shop setup.
Shop setup:
1. Shop table-The best size is 12 feet long. I made the table in an eight foot section with a four foot extension that was added onto the end. The better combination is to make two six foot sections fused together with a piece of 3/4 inch thick plywood on the sides. What that does is give the space store the fuselage for other work to be done. The fuselage is under the table in pic#2. (Pic#2 also shows the CS being made and the right wing on one wall and LG hung nest to it and with the left wing on the opposite wall and the canard hung above the garage door opener) 

2. Bench table-Pic#3 shows a seven foot long wall mounted bench. This one is 22 inches wide. You can narrow it down to 20 inches and shorten it to six feet long. On the bench you have three very important things. You need a drill press. I got this one cheap at Lowe's. Next, I had an old grinder and last of all I mounted a cheap vise on the end of the table. The band saw is nice to have ($99 at Lowe's).
3. Cutting board/box-Pic#4&7 show the cutting board. Go to a fabric store and get two 24X36 inch "self healing" sheets and a rotary fabric cutting blade. I attached the table to the fabric storage box with two door hinges and placed screen door latches at the top to hold it in the closed position. I added the extra 2X4 on the end to screw on a piece of masonite sheeting 3 feet by 3 feet to add temporary length for cutting the layups for the wings. This box is wall mounted with 1/4th inch lag bolts. The little temporary board shown is there to step on the table for the placement of the wings above. The wings are this way when the winglets are attached. "I'm chasing rabbits", and so back to the cutting board. I have moved this to three different locations during the project and so the wall mount is a must.
4. Metal shelves (Sam's club) and shoe boxes- All chapters have a box. 
5. Heat box: The heat box is on a mobile metal shelf. It's a 2"X2" frame with metal coated insulation foam for the walls and sealed with metal duct tape. The heat source is a ceramic light fixture plugged into a timer. There is a large analog thermometer inside. I used a 40 watt bulb in the heat of the summer and a 100 watt bulb in the winter time. The door is cracked open with a small object on a string to help regulate the temps as needed during the day. I shoot for 100 degrees.
6.Foam storage: I put some 1.5 inch diameter PVC together as a frame and hung it from the ceiling. I covered it with some clear plastic and stored the foam there.

Building Sequence:
1. Chapter 4-9 in that order.
2. Store the fuselage under the shop table and make the canard, elevators, wings and winglets, but do not cut out the ailerons and rudders at this time. 
3. Hang the wings and winglets on the sides of the garage.
4. Do the canard installation and then hang the canard from the ceiling by the lift tabs.
5. Do the nose, and nose gear
6. Combine the control and trim system with the armrest construction. I constructed the seats at this point, because it is so much easier to get into the fuselage now.
7. Store the fuselage under the shop table and cut out and install the ailerons and the aileron controls right after completing the rest of the controls. Hold off on Step 12 of chapter 19 (right there is no CS yet).
8. After hanging up the wings. make the CS.
Steps after this will need more lab space. The lab bench is disassembled for the next steps. The two halves, without the legs, can be used in the strake construction steps. If you make your turtleback, then you will use the table for that.
9. Constuct the turtleback or purchase it from Featherlite
10. Block up the fuselage a few inches off the floor in exactly level position and attach the CS/wings/top of firewall and trial fir the turtleback all at the same time to assure alignment. 
11. If you are going to make the Forward Hinged Canopy, then you will install the turtleback and do the firewall reinforcements and cut the turtleback and then do the FHC work, AFTER THE STRAKES ARE DONE. The reason for this is that you need to have the top fairing shaped up in foam to transition to the shape of the FHC outboard sides.
12. Construct the strakes at this point. The lower fairing must be done with the plane flipped over. You may do the lower fairing at the point that the exterior strake skin or later right before you do the final finish.
Note for FHC: You can attach the forward portion of the turtleback to the FHC, but it is much easier to hinge that part of the turtleback to the side and make the FHC shorter and lighter.
13. FHC: Make the top fairing foam and transition it to the FHC and to the canard cover and nose.
14. During steps 11-13, you will add the lip at the aft of the fuselage and make the scoop lip. The purchase of the Featherlite cowling will affect the way that you make the lip. Do not follow my steps on the fuselage lip, if you are using the Featherlite cowling.
15: Attach winglets to the wings and cut out rudders, ect.
16. Finish work
17. Prime and paint.
18. Install engine and do electrical work