Ch. 4-6

 

Chapters 4-5-6
Chapter 4
Arrow down

 


Work: May-June-2006
Pic#1: I worried after the IP was done about the foam between the fore and aft glass layups(the unfinished edges), but later work takes care of that.
Pic#2: Hardpoints are in place. Throughout the project I marked where micro was called for and flox was called for. For me flox is where force is applied and micro makes a smooth surface. Micro is brittle and flox is not. In contrast to those rules you will find micro called for in step 4 of ch. 4. I followed the plans.
Pic#3: The pizza roller helps even out the glass to micro bond. For UND layups, you can pull on the ends in the line of the glass and take out "bubble" shapes on the glass. The lines of the glass have to stay in the line that is called for in the plans. The roller was not used to press a the UND down in a wavy pattern. Practice here will pay dividends on the UND work on the wings. There will be times that you can draw the layup on plastic (reversed) and cut it out and lay it on the area like a decal on glass and then the pizza roller is not needed ( BID strips, winglet to wing layups and FW reinforcement layups are some examples).
Pic#4: The hardpoint surfaces need flatness for the metal hardpoints that will be added later.
Pic#5: I used elevator bolts 1/4th inch diameter for the rudder pulleys and then in chapter 23, I changed to clickbonds with a 3 ply BID layup around them and with a good "buttering" of flox. 
Pic#6: Preview of where the parts go. You cannot see F-28 and this is upside down.

Chapter 5
July 2006

5-1
Work: Sept.-Nov.-2006
Pic#1: The top longerons are shaped in the jigs. The curvature of the sides of the fuselage is set by this. The 1X8 boards are cut to make one side of the curvature. I marked the matching mirror image cut side to match back up on the other side. Screw the end of the FJA "mirror" onto the table and rotate it onto the sides of the longerons to press the shape. Saran wrap is surrounding the floxed longeron pieces and the nails are still placed to make a good shape, but they are on the outer side of the Saran wrap. Since the top longerons are on a flap table, that is the position that I returned them to for the fuselage assembly in chapter 6. Wayne Hicks did that. For the nails in fig. 3, I used 1/8th inch diameter finishing nails to allow easier removal after floxing.
Pic#2: The forms are made to be the same on both sides. I used screws to attach the 1/8th inch masonite to the forms. This allowed the adjustment of the material to prevent any uneven warping. The out side (bottom of fuselage) will want to do some uneven bending, unless you use screws to contour the masonite to the forms.
Pic#3: The five minute epoxy dabs are on the under side to hold the foam to the contour of the forms with soft weights to hold the foam down until cure.
Pic#4: This the work of fig. 10 of 5-4. I used boards from the fig.2 jig to make the spacer. I then took out the spacer and did the 4 ply UND layup as per fig.11 of 5-4.
Pic#5: This is the electical conduit. I did not make a pic of the lower longeron and doubler. The end of the lower longeron is visible in chapter 6 and in chapter 19 with the CS install. In chapter 22 and 23, I ended up only having the rudder cables in this area of the electrical conduit. From the IP to the CS/FW area, the electrical conduit will need a "Lot" of wires, and so don't make the electrical conduits on the small size.


Chapter 6
July 2006

Make you work easier on this chapter, by drawing a line down the center of the workbench. Keep the centerlineof the fuselage lined up with that for simplicity. I had to use 2X4's for spacers to allow for the height of the IP. I highly recommend this approach to getting trueness of the fuselage. My engine mount fit smoothly to the FW.

I measured and marked for position and then drilled 1/8th inch holes through the sides of the fuselage for placement of sheetrock screws to hold everything in place, until floxing. If your pieces are made to specs and the left and right sides are symmetrical, then it fits well. I would go for making the IP and LG bulkheads to fit and then trim the seat as needed. If you have a 1/4th inch gap at some points, but flush at other points, then the floxwill fill that in. The two most important things are being on line with the centerline and symmetrical.

The wood blocks stayed during the floxingand placement of BID strips. Tip for BID strips: mark some plastic witha sharpie with the shape of the BID strips, wet out the BID on the plastic, then cut the plastic and carry the plastic and the BID strip to fuselage. Flox or micro all corners for adhesion and then peel ply. A poor man's peel ply is to use a good quality masking tape.

Take care for alignment of the FW to make the engine mount placement go well.

Use the temp. FW to help set the positions of the LG bulkheads. Get the positions squared up and an even distance apart. Later, shen you want to "slip in" the landing gear, it will be easier.

These pictures show the "stops and screw downs".

This is the very important alignment of the FW. If you have your engine mount already, then you could flip it over and check for fit. Notice the square on the tabletop. The fuselage is parallel to the tabletop and centered to the centerline, so this works.
NOTE: In this picture the forward LG bulkhead is turned around. Obviously, I changed that before floxing.

This is after floxing.

Seat back support.

Heat duct/water line conduit/centerlinespline for strength

This a water cooled project with a Renesis rotary engine. There is a heater forward of the IP.

Before cure, I flipped the bottom onto the flox capped sides and weighed it down. Remember block up the underside (plastic seperator) prevent sagging. 

This a picture from the next chapter, showing the supports.