The anti-tip action works, but at a price of not allowing enough air flow during the my long taxi time at MQY. The brakes overheated and the fiberglass almost ignited, so the wheel pants had to come off. The good news is that I saved twenty pounds on the weight of the plane.
The parking brake is at the end of this chapter.
doubleclick pics for larger images
doubleclick pics for larger images
The first picture shows foam being stacked for the bottom scoop. In the second picture, you can see the alum. inserts with screws in the predrilled holes. I do not like this idea and I scraped the inserts idea. After I made the LG cover, I drilled holes through the cover lip and into the fuselages opening edge and inserted Tee nuts. So simple.
Some of the antennas are shown. I have removed the retro landing light opening, since this picture and placed the landing lights on the end of the strake LE (see ch. 21).
The bevel down for the CS reinforcement layups is shown. The strapping down helped hold the shape.
The bottom of the fuselage shows a plans type landing light. I replaced the 55 watt light with four 55 watt landing lights. Two on each strake outboard LE area (ch. 21) They are all very small in size. The second picture is a comfortable "glass down" position. The third picture is of the transition area for the future CS reinforcement layups. The picture of the canopy hinges is obsolete, because I have installed FHC hinges off F-28 and placed two five inch piano hinges in the outboard edge of the top fairing for the forward end of the TB (see chapter 18). The last picture is the "boat picture". This is the one and only personal picture on the site, and I don't think that my wife, Agnes, is going to want to sit in the pilot's seat in flight. I may make and post a picture with the two of us and the finished plane at MBT. The cut out for the canard has been done.
Pic#1: The sharp aft edge of the seat back is changed to a rounded edge in chapter 18. When you enter the rear seats, you hold at that point and it is not needed to have sharp edges inside the cabin.
Pic#2: Earlier Tee nuts. Later, I began to glass over the prong type tee nuts (see section 9-6)
Pic#5: I took off these ghastly auto headrest in chapter 18 and placed glassed headrest attached to the FHC ( aka, forward hinged canopy). The piano hinges have been removed also as part of the FHC "upgrade"(an opinion thing) and last of all the heat duct at the LG bulkhead was lowered and the hoses were routed through the strut area and onto the FW (see ch. 21).
This shows the the inner side of the support that the landing brake hinge screws onto. These are Hillman 1/4th by 20 hex caps. I would now just use the size Tee nuts to match the bolts and flox them in and a small 1"X1" piece of BID on each side for security. You will not have access to these after install. The next picture shows a trial fit of the hinge and the hinge support. Next, you see the hinge support board install and glassed. Just be sure to tape the hinge and keep flox away from the hinge. The border area around the door was a mess. I had to do some surgery and then applied some micro and used saran wrap as a separator. In hindsight, this was all avoidable, but you have to remember that this is early on in the process. When I did the final micro fill, it looks great.
Here is the landing brake in place. The next picture shows a later point in the project, but I not taken a pic with the motor in use. The micro on the side of the fuselage is going to be matched by a fill on the bottom and then comes the sanding part.
Here are the LG strut with the alignment of the axles being done and the mounting of the Cleveland brakes. Yes, I have heard all about the inadequate Cleveland brakes. I used the 30-164 brake assembly(kit #199-197) for 289,000 ft-lb per wheel (as apposed to the 30-133 plans brake assembly of 192,000). The Matcobrakes are 325,000 ft-lb. I made larger rudders with greater deflection to give more braking. I did use the Matco cylinders, reservoir and parking brake.
Stop Tip Wheel Pants
Plan B: First
Summary of Stop Tip Wheel Pants
There are 5 foam pieces for each wheel pant to cut and arrange around the tire to make this type of wheel pant. The spurs attach to the LG and then the spurs attach to the inboard side of the wheel wells and the door links the wheel wells together. An inboard panel is cut out to allow brake caliper removal and tire changing.
[Note: The bonnet is rigid and also attached to the LG above where the spur attach areas. Flexing of the LG is greater in the flatter areas, above these two areas.
Summary steps for Plan B-wheel on the ground- Steps 1-6 are with the plane on the ground. The gallery of pics are referred to with the steps. I suggest that you print out this wheel pant section.
Mark a center line beneath the fuselage and mark a left and right parallel line at the center line of the tires (main). Also mark a perpendicular line to the fuse center line and between the axle center points of the mains. Tape the full scale drawing to a piece of cardboard and center the axle point on the drawing to the line between the two axle center points and mark the LE and TE of the wheel pants on the floor.
ST-2 (sec 9-5)
From 3/8 inch blue foam, cut out the six foam pieces.
1. Aft spur: 2.75"X16" (mark outbd on one side and glass outbd side with an 8 ply (4 UND & 4 BID) and the inbd side with a 2 ply BID. After cure, flox all edges.
2. Fwd spur: 2.75"X 6" (cut off to fit fwd and aft angles as needed) same layup work as for aft spur, but wait to flox the edges until after trimmed to fit.
3. FWD wheel well (WW): 6"X8"- do 2 ply BID on both sides
4. AFT wheel well: 6"X9"-also 2 ply BID on both sides
5. Outboard door: (cut this out in cardboard first to check the height with your tire)The width is determined by taping a 1"spacer on the fwd and aft side of the tire and positioning the two wheel wells against the spacers and then measure between the two. This door will serve as the outboard spacer between the two wheel wells. The height can be determined from the full scale plan sheet. Place the cardboard version on a ground spacer (ST-3) and if it looks accurate, then cut the 3/8 foam version and do not glass this piece.
6. The aft rib may be cut out later. The idea is to have this piece contact the ground on the stop tip test and to glass to the aft spur. The urethane foam will surround them for shape only.
Place spacers on the floor around the tire to hold up the two wheel wells and the outboard door (2.75" up for a no engine fuselage and 2.5" for a fuse with the added weight of the engine).
Add spacers at the fore and aft of the tire to make a one inch space from the tire to the wheel wells. Also add 5/8"of space between the outboard side of the tire and the outboard door. Next, temporarily tape the wheel wells and outboard door in place (all pieces are elevated up 2.75 or 2.5").
Cut forward spur to fit between the LE of LG and the inbd. aft edge of the FWW(forward wheel well). See detail step for the inbd-outbd or CS position in relation to the tire center line. Flox the fwd spur to LG and wheel well and let cure.
Set aside aft wheel well and outboard door and position aft spur (detail step & full scale d.) and flox to TE of LG. Let cure.
Trim aft wheel well(ww) were it contacts the aft spur to allow it to stay in line with the front ww and with the wheel center line. Reposition the outbd. door in place between the two ww's and flox the aft ww to the aft spur. After cure drill 1/8" holes and place finishing nails between outboard door and the two ww's (you will need to remove the door and make interior layups, after the plane is raised up and the tire is removed).
Jack up the plane (see detail step for details) and note that the tire "toes in", when the weight is off.
(With the tire still on and the outboard door still pinned in place)
Glass the inboard side of two spurs from aft spur over inbd of LG to wrap around onto the fwd side of the front ww by at least one inch. Cure.
Remove nails on door and set aside the door and remove the tire. Do interior layups and add the heat shield.
Place the tire and brake back on.
Depending on your brake caliper position, cut a 2"X1" hole on the fwd WW and a 2.5"X1" hole on the aft WW for future air flow from a scoop and exit duct. At this point, add the aft rib. Remember that the rib runs to the lower surface and connects to the aft spur. This is what sets the stop tip point and if you have your engine and prop on, then you need to put a spacer on the tip of the prop (1.5-2") and carefully tip the plane to "kiss" that spacer to the ground and set the aft rib to contact the ground at that same point. See stop tip pics at 9-16.
Start stacking foam over the top of the tire and over the inboard side of the LG and brake area. Use the jiggle to mark and then scoop out technique to contour the foam. Place 5/8" long pieces of dowel rods in the foam above the tire. These will tell you the thickness remaining, when you contour the exterior.
Cover all parts inside the wheel pants to protect from epoxy dripping.
Tape the contour of the tire on the outside of the foam on the outboard door and mark the future cut lines for the fore and aft sides of the door. You cannot mark the top cut line, until the foam contour work is done. You must allow room at the top for the tire to slide straight out, so go high up enough there.
Stack foam and contour.
Also stack foam for the LG fairing after marking the LE and TE on the side of the fuselage. At this point, check for the parking position clearance for the nose of the wheel pants and trim the foam as needed.
You will need to add a little micro (WITH A 2 ply BID layup over the micro) to the TE of the LG for contour.
Add transition fins of 8 ply BID pieces to the LE of fairing to fuselage area and the LE of LG to wheel pants area.
Carve out the scoop inlet and exit and stiffen the sides with epoxy (cure) add masking tape over defects on the pants to prevent micro from being pressed into the gaps.
Mark the outline of the outboard door and inboard door and then glass the exterior with 4 ply BID. After cure add flox at the TE.
Micro the fairing, LG and wheel pants and sand smooth.
With a dremel disk, cut out the aft side of both doors and then add external, temporary piano hinges on the aft side.
Cut out the rest of the door areas.
Install outboard piano hinge on fwd side and then add door stop on the aft side.
Refer to the cowling door section (9-13 &9-14) and install stop tabs with nutplates to secure the inside door panel.
At 90 degrees to the curve of the LG, cut the fairing to separate the LG from the fuselage and LG cover (see 9-10).
Remove tire and smooth out the interior and do a 2 ply BID interior layup. Use 3M masking tape to span gaps as needed.
FOR PICTURES ABOVE
Pic#1: Full scale drawing from final product.
Pic#2: There are six foam pieces that are mounted inside the wheel pant. The color pics are prebuild pics and so the corrections are shown on the full scale.
Pic#3: The orange line is the LG strut. The "C" and yellow outline on this pic shows the cut line for the outboard door.
The spurs attach to the LG and the wheel wells mount to the spurs and are hinged to the outboard door. e of the pant. The wheel well supports are end at the "outer surface", on the outboard side as determined by the outboard door spaced 5/8" from the outboard side of the tire and both wheel wells are spaced either 2.5" from the ground (with engine mounted) or 2.75" (w/o engine). Both wheel wells are six inches wide and the front is 8" tall and the aft is 9" tall. Later pictures show the 3/8thinch thick foam piece in the tire door area, where A-A and * are. This piece is taped over with masking tape and the foam is removed after the glassing.
"A-A" shows the piano hinges. There are two and each is 2 inches long.
"*" and "A-A" show the outboard removable section (door).
Pic #4 The finished product.
Note: All of the gallery below is for Plan B
Note: Pics were rotated 180 degrees and so background objects will be upside down.
Add a temporary piano hinge on the forward side. The first pic has some masking tape to show that. The next section shows how I made the cowling doors and that method is much better. So, you can go to chapter 23 and see more detail on that. The way, that I did on the inboard panel was just more crude, but it finished out fine.
Cowling door technique from chaper 23.
Plan A follows and will be removed after the rewrite with Plan B
The spurs are glassed at this point. The inboard sides were done withthe wheel on and the temp. piece of foam positioning the spur away from the wheel and to the wheel mid line. The first layup was 8 ply (4 BID and 4 UND) that was just the widthof the spurs and was placed in two pieces that overlapped three inches at the strut (the UND made this necessary). The outboard layup was done with the wheel off and was a single piece 2 ply BID that overlapped onto the inboard sides. I floxed the ends of the spurs.
NOTE: This section of work would be easier, if you make up the ground reference setup that is shown later. I found that setup helpful for the carving the foam symmetry and so you might as well use it here. My supports turned out perfect with this technique, but the ground reference bars are easier to go by.
This is the template. The axle waterline is marked on the wheel on the outside and the wheel is set in position by marking tick lines on the inboard side. Then the axle waterline is transferred to the wheel well supports using this template. I had marked the axle waterline on the wheel well supports from the plans and lined that mark up with the template line. Later this axle waterline will be visible on the outboard side after the blue foam is applied and I will use it to set the LE and TE of the pants.
In the third picture of the first set, I spoke of tick lines on the inboard side of the wheel. I used them to position the wheel and then taped the wheel in place to allow the template on the outboard side to be accurate.
This is the front view. In the next set of pictures, I added a rib to the front and rear wheel well supports and so they really have to be "square" to the center line of the tire.
These are 8-32 Tee nuts. I want to cover the install of these and you can see the beauty of using Tee nuts.
I make a cardboard template of the "heat shield" and then cut it out from the 12" by 12" sheet of .032 thick piece of aluminum that I did not use for the canopy install (FHC instead). I marked the position for the desired six 8-32 machine screws and drilled the holes on the heat shield. I positioned the heat shield and drilled through just the outboard side of the spur (this is the 2 ply side). I placed an 8-32 screw into the hole to hold it and then repeated the process and adding another 8-32 screw. When finished drilling the holes into the spurs. I set the heat shield aside and drilled the holes in the outboard surface of the spurs witha 7/32 inch bit and took 8-32 Tee nuts and using a rubber hammer, I tapped them into position. I did hold my hand behind the spur at first, but I found them to be more than able to take the tapping. After the Tee nuts are tapped down, the prongs still keep the Tee nuts off the surface by about an eighth of an inch. That's good. The floxadded around later will set around the prongs to lock them in place. I sealed the opening with orthodontic wax. I wet out some 2 ply BID layups on some plastic, floxed around the Tee nuts and placed the layups over the fore and aft sections of Tee nuts. After cure, I dremeledoff the glass covering the opening to the Tee nut and scooped out a little of the wax and tested the holes with 1/2 inch long 8-32 screws. The second pic shows the heat shield in place with the screws and washers. This was very easy and very secure.
I have seen pictures of heat shields that appeared to be of thicker aluminum. This is .032 thick. You might call this a heat sink instead of heat shield. The brakes take a braking force and convert it into heat. The part of the "blast" of heat that radiates toward the strut is absorbed by the sheet of aluminum. The Tee nuts on the spur are slightly raised, so there is a spacing between the heat sink and the strut and spurs to hold the heat away from them. The 1.5 inch by 1 inch naca scoop on the forward inboard side of the wheel pants will directair over the brakes and heat sink and carry the heat away. The scoop is covered with later pics. The third pic of this section shows the aft cut out of the wheel well support for the outlet (which is 2 inch by 1 inch size- outlet is as large or larger than inlet).
Here are the cutouts on the wheel well supports for the scoop inlet and outlets. See the strake chapter (21) for the steps on how I made those air inlet scoops. These are just much smaller. The nose piece was taken off after this picture. The third pic is showing some firewall insulation with 210 degree rated metal tape. I wrapped and taped the brake line. This is the plans brake line material. I have seen other hoses, but the space is tight here and I want my inner removable panel to be close to the strut. The air scoop will provide for good cooling of the area.
Pic # 1: The first pic above is of the alignment jig. The rods are just light and flat metal pieces used to attach screen for porches and are at ground level. I ran a piece of cord over the top of the rear tire and over the top of the front LG tire to check this and these rods are also parallel to the flat portion of the bottom of the fuselage. All of the supports are equidistant from the center line of the plane and square in all directions. This makes left and right symmetry easier.
Pic #2: This is showing the side foam which is 3/8ths inch thick with some 1/4th inch spacers for a total of 5/8ths inch. The height of contour of the soft foam on the top of the pant is established by this shape and then I will round the edges. After glassing the exterior, I will cut out a door for access to the tire (foam is taped there).
Pic 3#: This is showing some cut outs of blue foam. The two smaller end pieces are 6 inch wide and are glued inside the wheel well supports and extend down 2 inches. The piece is the middle is for the top of the wheel pant. The side shown is carved out for the tire and the opposite side is rounded for the exterior. The two 10" by 10" pieces are trimmed for a angled shape and held together with finishing nails. These two pieces span the distance between the wheel well supports on the inboard side and after the midline is marked on the strut, then the nails are removed to carve out the inner side for the strut and brake lines, ect. and the other side is rounded for pant contour. This piece will make the surface for the inboard access door (no hinge, but just screws). This section will flow into the shape of the bonnet. The bonnet will be like the transition at the base of the strut to fuselage area. The two areas have the same type airflow, so this seems to make sense.
Pic #4: (Add some thin cloth over the brakes and drum before foaming). The fourth pic shows the foam pieces from the third pic after internal shaping. O.K., here is what that means. I marked a midway point on the inside of the strut and took one of the 10 inch by 10 inch pieces of foam and marked the pieces fore and aft and left and right. I pressed one of the pieces over the area that it would cover and "jiggled" it to leave a mark and then trimmed in that area. Jiggle-trim, jiggle-trim and the shape quickly takes form to allow for space under the inboard skin for the brake line, and brakes, ect. I kept timming until the pieces contacted the inboard side of the wheel well support. I did this same thing for the top piece of the pants over (upside down here) the tire.
Pic #5: To give spacing over the tire, I drilled 1/4th inch wide holes and place dowel pins cut to 5/8ths inch length. I inserted the dowel pins part way and then pushed the foam parts into position to set the dowel pins at the right position. I marked the inner surfaces of the inboard pieces with a black sharpie and then painted the inner surface of all the pieces with epoxy. Later, I carved the "top" of the pant until I saw one of the ends of the dowel rods to get the 5/8ths inch clearance. This is a very important step.
The four foam pieces for the front are seven inches long, except for the inboard one, which is one inch shorter. I used the nose rib that I had cut off and added an inch further back to over contour the foam. It would be just as well to have a cardboard template made from the plans dimensions. The TE section starts withone piece that is cut from the plans dimensions, but I ended up with18 inches on that length. I added a second piece inboard to that, which runs from the TE to the aft of the rear spur. These two middle pieces make the TE center point. I added a 6 inch long outboard piece and an 8.5 inch long inboard piece to the inboard side. There are two small filler pieces top and bottom to add also. I added some 1 inch thick pieces of foam on the bottom inboard side next to tire to close back in the shape. I had covered the brake and drum with a thin rag, before I microed those pieces in place.
Next, stack the foam pieces together and place finishing nails to hold during cure and check the TE and LE against the ground reference bar for alignment (AOA) and symmetry from left to right. Then mix up thick micro and first bond the pieces to each other and reinsert the finishing nails and then bond to the wheel well supports and for the rear, bond to the rib. I started shaping the foam this morning (05-04-2010) and the ugly duckling look is quickly going away. I shaped up the left pant and carved out the inlet side of the scoop. See previous pics for the position of the cutout on the wheel well support.
Pic #1: Foam stacked and bonded-inboard view.
Pic #2: Same-outboard
Pic #3: Aft look at stacked and bonded foam. You can see that it takes some odd shapes on a couple of the pieces.
Pic #4: The shaped pant-outboard view. The tape is used for two reasons. I bridged over gaps in the foam for the glassing. I will still use micro. The round shape of tape is where the foam below will be completely removed to give the 5/8 inch clearance to the side of the tire. I need some foam on the perimeter to make the tire door have strength. The soft blue and yellow foam has had a coat of epoxy applied to it before the taping was done. The same technique was used for the LE of the strakes(ch. 21) and to make the fuselage and cowling lips (ch. 23). If you don't do this then the micro causes unevenness (dips) that you "chase" withmore micro and pressing the outside of the glass to smooth out the micro is a tricky thing. Hey, you're probably already doing this. I did not need to apply epoxy on the tire door (before glassing), because it is stiff foam. Note the LE-TE line marked on the outer foam. This is parallel to the ground reference bar, which are removed now. The outline of the tire door is marked for cutout after glassing.
NOTE: On 10-23-2010, I did the final mount of the LG and I was 1/2 inch too close to the ground on one of the pants. I have to trim off on the outbboard lower right side and do a little refinish work. The painting is not yet done, so it's no problem. I would give 3 inches to the bottom of the tire and when the tire is compressed, then you will have 2.25-2.50 inches of clearance.
Pic #5: Inboard view.The removable panel outline is marked. Later, when I did the cut, I left 1.5 inches on the lower side to run from the forward to aft sections. (see 9-12).
I don't show the foam that was placed on the bottom inboard side of the tire, but you add it there and curve the edge towards the tire (also see 9-12).
For the strut, I used 3M masking tape for peel ply. It works great. Don't use any blue tape for this purpose. The tape on the strut is over a 2 ply BID layup that covered some micro, which fixed the "dip" near the TE. This should keep me from leaving micro chunks on the runway. The dip was small.
I did the "A bridge too far" thing this morning. I started glassing the bottom side (reversed orientation) and inboard and outboard sides plus make the inboard and outboard sides of the bonnets for both wheel pants at one time. The shop was at 68 degrees, so I figured to get a little more working time. What I did not figure was the working over the strakes factor. I ended up using the hair dryer and trudged on to a good finish, but it was 4.5 hours of "sprinting". It was too much like work. I should have wet out the glass for one side at a time. I could have done both sides in thirty minutes less time or at least have a more leisurely schedule.
Pic #1: This dark picture is the TE "fin" for the bonnet. I used some scraps of 3 ply BID for this and the same way for the TE of the fairings for the strut/fuselage junction. My bonnet is more narrow. It seems to make sense to match the shape of the strut/fuselage fairing, since the airflow pattern is similar.
Pic #2: This is the rough shape after glassing all the sides except the top of the middle and nose sections. I have to trim out for the scoops and glass their interior surfaces. I used a dremel disk and opened up the TE and placed a flox tip.
Pic #3: The front profile looks funny with the positive camber. When the weight of the plane is applied to the strut, then the outboard side will be parallel to the sides of the fuselage. Whatever the shape of the strut, the pant will hold position relative to the tire, and that's what counts the most to me. There is no bulge on the outboard side, like most of the Cozy wheel pants, because there is no mounting bracket there. The bottom of the fuselage is flat also, and decreased drag is what this is all about.The same applies to the inboard side. I covered all the vitals and cut the profile down to the minimum. This makes a different looking profile, but the air should flow well on this shape.
Pic #4: This is the anti-tip pic. The strut is suspended by ropes and just sitting on the buckets. This shows the pitch of 14 degrees before the rear of the pant contacts the ground. My plans showed 13.5 degrees, so this looks good. The bottom of the pant has the aft "rib" just under the skin and the rib is bonded to the aft "spur", which is bonded to the strut. After I mount my redriveand prop then I will recheck this and adjust the pant as needed. Since I have foam underneath the glass, a little surgery is no big deal. The top has been glassed after this pic and I glassed the scoop intake and outflow. I microed the exterior and sanded it down.
"Tire door" and HINGES, the "think outside of the box" way
Pic#1-4: At pic #4, I had marked the mid line of the tire enclosure on the bottom of the outboard foam. I measured forward and aft 8 inches and marked a perpendicular line with a pencil. I drilled a very small test hole and looked from below to see if the line was at the wheel well support point. It turned out that the inside to inside demensionsis 15.5 inches. I had to move the top of the line a little and then I marked with a sharpie for the vertical cuts. The top cut line must allow for the height of contour of the tire for removal. This pic shows the temporary external hinge on the forward side. I placed another temp. hinge on the aft side BEFORE cuting out the door. Both hinges are marked (up side, fwd and aft).
Pic #1: This shows the tire door right after cutting the door out.
Pic #2: This shows the interior trimmed out for glassing. I placed some strips of 2 ply UND around the edges on the inboard side lip. The gaps at the bottom of the wheel well supports were spanned with masking tape and I placed a 5 inch by 5 inch glass piece there (allowing for a glass to glass bond around the masking tape). See pic #7.
Note: This inboard door allows for removal of the disk assembly and thus allows for a tire replacement. Jacking up the plane for tire removal must be under the CS at the hardpoints for wing attachment (with a soft cover to protect the paint). I did that exact type jack work for elevating the plane to paint the lower part of the fuselage.
Pic #4-6: Here are the details for the hinge installation with Tee nuts.
1. Put the aft temp. hinge on.
2. Trim the forward surface of the door for the inset of the hinge.
3. Mark the holes from the aft side of the temp. external hinges onto the aft of the perm. hinges and drill out for the temp. screws. Install the aft side of the hinge on the interior of the door, and drill out holes per size for the Tee nuts (10-32 or 8-32) on the inner side of the hinge.
4. Close the door flush and through the inner access door, reach in and mark the holes through the inner side of the hinge (pic #6 shows that view)
5.Hinge open the tire door and drill larger sized holes than the Tee nuts need, to allow for a perfect final position. I twisted the Tee nut prongs flat and placed ortho wax on the inner opening. (see pic #5).
6. Place masking tape on the surface of the inner side of the hinge, butter in flox into the Tee nut holes, insert the Tee nuts and install the matching screws through the hinge as in pic #6. Screw the bolts in half way to allow you to press down on the Tee nut and assure that it is still fully seated in the hole. Let cure.
7. Remove the hinge and place ortho wax into the openings of the Tee nuts and place a 2 ply BID layup over the Tee nuts to secure them to the wheel well.
Pic #7: The aft door stop is covered here. I cut off some 5/8ths inch scrap of glassed foam (3/8thsinch thick). Next I closed the tire door and taped the exterior so that it would remain flush and reached in from the inboard side and put the strip piece in place and marked the position with a sharpie. I drilled three holes forward-aft direction and placed three sheetrock screws to hold the position of the door stop, (rechecked the position to the interior of the tire door) and then floxed it in position from the inner side. I did not flox where Tee nuts were going to be placed. Drill through the holes in the tire door to match the screw size. I used a 6-32 by 1.5 inch machine screw. The 6-32 Tee nut is small enough in diameter to fit there. I noticed that all of the Tee nuts are available in two base sizes. Some places need the smaller diameter.After drilling the holes through the door stop, I opened the door and redrilledthe holes to 7-32 size holes. The Tee nuts are placed with the flat size facing away from the tire door. Insert the screws through the door to hold the Tee nuts in place and place a small dab of flox to hold the Tee nut. Don't get the flox on the machine bolt. I placed some ortho wax to help. This gave me a secure stop for the tire door.
Note: As of 10-29-2010, I have mounted the LG just prior to painting and the pants are 1/2 inch too low and uneven on the lower side, so I trimmed off 1/2 inch and floxed the botttom edge on the sides and it really made a better shape. The last pic shows the trimmed off pant.
Next: In Jan. of 2012, I did an anti-tip test and then a clearance of the heated pitot tube test with the nose down position and found that I needed to trim 1/2 inch off the lower edge of the nose adjacent to the wheel opening to allow for the angle of pitch for the nose bumper to contact the ground before the wheel pant nose did. A little flox and BID and they are ready for a little touch up paint when I paint the cowling.
Pic#1: This is the outline of the cut. I referred to the pics of the position of the brake line and other hardware.
1. work on the brake line 2. bleed the brake line 3. disassemble the brake (which allows for tire removal). That is what determines the outline shape. Matco brake folks will need a different outline.
Pic#2: I cut out the inboard panel and left a "bridging" section on the bottom. This is right after the cut. I used a dremel disk, and cut just through the glass. Then, I lightly used my hack saw blade to go through the soft blue foam. The brake line is about 1/2 to 3/4ths inch below the surface. The tan foam is some "great stuff" that I used to tack the foam to the spurs and strut. Of course Great stuff won't stick to blue foam unless you coated the internal side of the foam with epoxy.
Pic#3: The inboard panel needs 8-11 attach points. I used 11. I drilled 7-32 size holes and placed the 6-32 Tee nuts and placed a dab of flox to prevent rotation.
PANEL ATTACH POINTS:
At pic #5 you can see three of these "Tee plugs" (Tee nuts/fiberglass square). I took three of the Tee plugs and using a one inch 6-32 screw, I secured them to the inside of the panel (after applying masking tape) and added some orthowax to protect the screw from flox and placed some dry ficro (floxthickened with micro) on them. Since these three Tee nuts are the ones over the spurs supports, I could tape a little foam below the attach points to the spur to prevent dripping and taped the panel in place and let cure. The three attach points held the panel stable for the next step.
I taped the inside of the panel and marked circles where the ficroreinforcement was in the panel and then I secured the panel into place withthe three screws. Then from the outboard side I placed 2 inch by 2 inch pieces of 5 ply UND withthe plastic still on the outer side to allow masking tape to be used to help hold them. I also buttered each piece with some medium consistency flox to help hold it in place until the tape could be applied.
After cure, I drilled the 6-32 holes through the previous holes in the panel and through the panel pads.
Next the panel had to be "teased off". The flox sticks to the masking tape, but the masking tape will peel off the panel. I peeled off the masking tape from the panel where it was not covered under the pads and then used a hack saw blade to unstick the tape from the panel and then the panel came off. Be patient and it will come off.
You want a very good adaptation of the pads to the interior of the panel.
Next, I used one inch 6-32 screws to position the Tee plugs on the inboard side of the panel pads and placed a small bit of flox (AFTER REMOVING THE PLASTIC) on the Tee plug to panel pad junction.
I trimmed up the pads and tested the access for placing and removing the brake and tire.
Pic#6: This shows some blue foam at the top. I trimmed that down and put a BID layup from the top to the wheel well forward and aft boards to make the interior sealed for water spray.
Thanks to Wayne Hicks for his strut/fuselage fairing information.
This is chapter 25 work, but I included it here and I will refer to this section in chapter 25. The time is right for this work. After, the pants are shaped and partially glassed, then I will need to take the strut off to finish the work on the pants, so the LG-fuselage fairings are done before the LG strut is removed.
Pic #1: This is the LE and TE line marked by placing a level on the LE and drawing forward, and then the same for the TE. I call this the center line of the fairing.
Pic #2: This is the first block.
Pic #3: These are easy to cut and make. I marked the shape off the outboard edge of the LG cover on a 14 inch by four inch piece of 2" thick soft foam. The cutout needs to have a little taper. I just used a handled hack saw and guessed. Then I jiggled the piece on the strut. The left top piece is angled just like the right bottom piece and it reverses for the right. So if you angle the cut wrong, then you can still use it somewhere. "Just go for it". Cut four pieces. I put the bottom piece in position and overlapped the top piece over that and cut through the two pieces at once,just like like cutting carpet or two pieces of overlapped fabric. Make the cut on the TE off center of the center-line, to allow the bonding of the piece to the fuselage.
Pic #4: The future cut lines are marked on the shaped foam. A small amount of micro is holding them in place for the shaping. The lines are covered over by the micro and have to be redrawn, but it helps to plan the cuts. The front to back lower cuts must be beveled to prevent "undercuts". The material below the glass is soft, and I want to do some
internal glassing later of the exposed foam.
Pic #5: The rough glassed shape. I used a dremel disk on the aft ridge and placed a flox edge. I placed some masking tape below the ridge, added the flox and then sandwiched the flox with another piece of masking tape and got a straight edge. You may want to add additional masking tape to hold the shape.
Pic #1: This shows the after micro look. Previously, I placed some micro on the strut have good shape (for AOA) and covered that with a 2 ply BID layup. For this micro work, I wanted it to be thin to prevent cracking, so I used a brush with epoxy to smooth it out. I have not done that with any other of the finish work, but the strut is a special situation. I used a little softer micro mix with a ratio of 5:7 (squirts:micro scoops), for the "upper surface", and 5squirts:8 for the lower surface. Later, I sanded and shaped to final shape but not smoothness. I do not want to re-cut the fairings after another micro layer and you can't micro them separately and get a smooth transition.
Pic# 2 : I remarked the cut lines and used the dremel on the straight parts and used a handled hack saw blade (one sided hold) for the curved LE area. Here are some suggestions. Mark the foam before glassing to get a "feel" for where the thickness of foam allows for a good cut. At the corners, extend the fairing cut line beyond the edge of the LG cover. Later, I ficroed the internal surfaces. I used some small pieces of glass on some of the areas (where there was room). Now, that the fairing is done, it's back to wheel pants.
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The pictures above show the installation of the Mapcoparking brake. The pad shown has two Tee nuts with the prongs bent flat for the bolts to hold the brake against the side of the fuselage. I floxed the pad to the side of the fuselage, slightly forward of the IP on the pilot's side. This is ideal for bringing the brake lines directly up to the parking brake and then continue on forward to the brake cylinders. If you made the plans pitch control, then this works like that for the IP cover. When you put a bolt in the control lever and move the handle you get the arc pathway. I screwed the p. brake onto my workbench and held a plastic covered square of plywood next to it. I inserted a drill bit through the handle and then scratched the arc onto the plastic and marked the center of rotation on the same template. I transferred this to a piece of aluminum sheeting (1/8 inch thick) and drilled the rotation point and using the drill press, drilled holes in the arc and made a little detour around a "tooth" at the top for a stop. The top position is the locked position. I cut off the rotation part of the cover after the two Tee nuts secured it to the IP. The blurry picture shows a drill bit extending through the IP to confirm the rotation point, BEFORE I cut the arc in the IP and mounted the cover. The smoothness of action of the cover is all dependent on duplicating your template onto it. The bolt from the P.brake to other side of the IP will be 1.5 to 2.0 inches. I will make a handle to match the rest of the IP, and anodize the piece of aluminum.